The lineup for this season’s Fashion East showcase included Maximilian Davis, Nensi Dojaka, Goom, newcomers Jawara Alleyne and accessories label HRH. The emerging designer support platform also released a joyful behind-the-scenes video documenting their socially distancing shooting process.
Having launched his brand during the pandemic last season, Davis said the fall 2021 collection is “a continuation of Black elegance and explores my grandmother’s emigration from Trinidad to England in the 1960s,” with a focus on psychedelic prints and unisex tailoring.
Dojaka is inspired by an exhibition with the works of Hilma af Klint at London’s Serpentine gallery years ago. “Those beautiful super fine feminine lines running through the huge canvases were a trigger for the first few drapes I did on the mannequin,” she said. Highlights include tulle corsets paired with tailored trousers and one of the light, flared dresses with the double bra details, which is is the first dress the designer draped for the collection.
Fashion East RTW Fall 2021
South Korean designer Goom Heo’s label this season centers around artist Philip Jackson’s horror-themed sculptures. “His work is enormous and made out of bronze. To me, his sculptures felt really cold & sharp and I wanted to reflect that mood in the collection. Also, the graphics and contrast color combination or texture of fabric were inspired by the 1920’s movie ‘The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari,’ in terms of shade and shadows moving around the body,” Goom said. A key look from the lineup is a black full-length hooded wool coat and the monochrome mohair pieces.
Raised in Jamaica and the Cayman Islands, Alleyne is a 2020 graduate of Central Saint Martins MA Fashion. She presented her collection via a video of the fictional journey of a captain on her ship “The Renegade” as they go on to save the “Sun City.” Characters include the crew, who wear repurposed leather trousers with draped top wrapped around waist and white top, and the council, whose approach is a lot more sleek and chic. “The video crescendos with this meditation between aggression and joy. I love playing with juxtaposed emotions to ask the viewer to come to their own conclusion,” she said.
HRH’s new accessories line is inspired by the designer’s love for “gymnastics and figure skating, sports teams and how their adornments unify them.” Key pieces include puffa silk and sheepskin and power mesh scrunchie thongs.
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